Cavite, famously known as the home of many of our National Heroes. It is for this reason that it earned its moniker, The Land of the Brave. The many nation-building events that transpired on its land are also why it’s called the History Capital of the Philippines. From being at the forefront of the Spanish revolution, thanks to the likes of Emilio Aguinaldo and the 13 martyrs, to the astounding ruins that became famous landmarks such as Corregidor Island, Aguinaldo Shrine, and well, who would forget about Tagaytay? Cavite is a proud place of culture and heritage. But there’s one more thing Caviteños are proud of — the heirloom dishes of Cavite.
Cavite became a port for Spanish vessels during the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. It opened the economic and cultural exchanges between various nations. Products from the opposing seaboards were exchanged every year through the voyage called Dia del Galeón. But apart from products, culture, and tradition, language was also brought to the Philippines as a means of contact with the locals. Chabacano, a Spanish-lexified Tagalog substrate contact language, is one of the collective Spanish contact varieties spoken in the country during the latter half of the 17th century. In Cavite, they were comprised of three contact varieties called Lenguaje de tienda (Trading language), Lenguaje de mercado (Market language), and Lenguaje de cocina (Kitchen language).
What does Cavite’s history have to do with food?
You may be wondering why we had to revisit the history of Cavite to talk about food. But as we mentioned before, food is a product of cultural exchanges. In order to understand food, we also need to know where it came from. What necessitated such food to be created, and why the specific ingredients? The best way to find answers to these questions is to view food through the lens of history and anthropology. Appreciating the heirloom dishes of Cavite, or any place, requires knowing its gastronomical background.
Cavite was an agrarian community during the Spanish period. Even today, it is still one of the major producers of crops and seafood products, which is also one of the many reasons some dishes can be traced back to Cavite. From Bacoor’s famed Halo-halo and Pansit Pusit, to a public market go-to dessert Bibingkoy, Cavite has more to offer — particularly their version of some of our traditional dishes.
Cavite’s Tres Marias
Tres Marias, the triple-treat consisting of Kare-Kare, Adobo Seca, and Kilawing Papaya, is a Sunday luncheon staple. As explained by the Caviteña restaurateur Agnes Bautista-Poblete of Cantina de Tina A, in an interview with Business World, though unclear, the name may have been coined during the Spanish Occupation since most kitchen helpers back then were Filipinas.
Though the general consensus is that Kare-Kare, the first Maria, was invented in Pampanga, the culinary epicenter of the Philippines, it was also embedded in Cavite’s culinary identity by serving the mindongo-starred cuisine (tuwalya) separate from its sauteed vegetables, along with the other two Marias.
The second Maria is the Adobo Seca, which is the Spanish word for “dry.” One particular note in this dish is the presence of annatto, a spice introduced to the Philippines from Mexico during the galleon trade. Though the dish is cooked like any other version of adobo, perhaps one distinction from other adobos is that Adobo Seca is filled with a lot of garlic. And by a lot, we mean A LOT.
The third and last Maria is the Kilawing Papaya. The Caviteños’ version of the dish, unlike the usual kinilaw which is made of raw fish, is made of grated green papaya cooked in vinegar, miso, and grilled pancreas.
Cavite’s culinary identity in front
Tres Marias is now gaining popularity among food enthusiasts thanks to the help of Caviteño food historians and local food houses that remains strong despite the increasing number of food franchises in the country. Tres Marias is just one of the many dishes from Cavite that was heavily influenced during the galleon trade. From desserts to spices and ways of cooking, there is more to discover in its historic place if only it would be given more recognition.
Undoubtedly, Cavite’s rich history paved the way in shaping its gastronomical culture and tradition. It may not be widely known yet, but with its strong local heritage cooking tradition, it is slowly inhabiting a distinction in the minds of people across the country.
